The anchovy and butter boom

Anchovies with butter, although you can find them smoked, are the same anchovies served in olive oil. The ones served on a slice of brioche are the new trendy dish. We explore the latest gastronomic phenomenon that has burst onto the scene in the capital.

The First Bite: An Unforgettable Discovery

The first time I tried anchovies with butter was in 2019. The renowned M.A. Revilla Cannery located in Santoña, Cantabria, and their version of this preserved fish on brioche bread soon went viral. It was a bite that melted on the palate with a powerful yet balanced flavour.

Origin of a Delicacy: Inspiration and Creativity

“The idea came from many years ago when Taberna Salinas opened its first venue in the Retiro area. They served anchovies accompanied by bread that was all crumb and a butter for spreading. I thought it was a delight,” says Luis García, founding partner and communications manager of Restaurante Del Mar. That gustatory memory came back inevitably while they were designing the bar's menu. “When we told our chef, in the first draft of the menu, he brought out the brioche with a slab of cold butter (which, despite the heat of the bread, didn’t melt), and the sight of the preserved fish on the white dairy created the perfect contrast. But we actually thought he had overdone it with the amount of butter… until we put it in our mouths. It was delicious,” he confesses.

Expansion and Variety in Madrid Restaurants

Since then, I have seen how the new trendy spots in the capital have included this delicacy in their menus –almost always designed for sharing–. From El 45 (Calle de las Letras, 10) to Marinos del Sur (Plaza de San Pedro, 5) or Casa del Mar (Calle de la Flor, 12). Although in the latter they appear with a different combination: calibre 0 anchovy on brioche bread with crème fraîche, butter powder, and lemon zest. “We were clear that we wanted our own version, but with a twist. Madrid is full of these toasts (some very tasty, by the way), but for us, who don’t like the ordinary, we wanted to put our own spin on it. During a visit to Deliciosa (Mercado de San Juan) we discovered butter powder and, since then, it has been on our minds to create something with that ingredient and link it to the anchovy. We did a thousand tests until we hit the right note and balanced formula,” explains Ana Beltrán, co-founder of La Anchoatería, about one of the star dishes at the newly opened Casa del Mar.

A Glimpse into the Past: Tradition and Evolution

Seeing the boom of this combination, it is inevitable to ask: what is the origin? “The Italians used to preserve anchovies in butter during the 18th and 19th centuries. This tradition arrived in Spain when an Italian merchant came to the Cantabrian coast in search of bocarte because there was not as much abundance in his homeland. He was the first to start deboning the fish and canning it, as here it was consumed with bones and guts, and it was a real revolution. Years later, it started to be preserved in oil”, details María González, sales manager at Del Ponto (Calle Guarnizo nº5, El Astillero, Cantabria), a gastronomic temple based in Cantabria that has been selling anchovy preserves in butter for years.

Innovation in Flavour: The Special Touch

One of Del Ponto’s flagship products since its inception was organic butter –winner of the Great Taste Award in 2021–. With the aim of making the most of this delight, its creators constantly tested different combinations. When they orchestrated a slice of bread with their star dairy product topped with an anchovy, they knew they had to take the product further. And so, the anchovy preserve in butter was born. “The fusion is very powerful, as it combines the umami and saltiness of the fish with the depth of the butter.” Since they started selling it, four years ago, it has become one of the brand’s best sellers.

The Future of Anchovies with Butter: A Trend or a Tradition?

We know the past and present of this combination that seems to have invaded the restaurant scene in our country without warning. The question now is whether it will die from success or, on the contrary, become a staple alongside other timeless tapas, like patatas bravas or croquetas. “There has been a boom now, but I think it’s about establishing a recipe that was already present in the past. And, moreover, we now have the advantage that anchovies are more subtle than they were 100 years ago,” concludes María. As for me, I can only wish a long life to what has become my favourite dish of 2024.

Discover Del Ponto's anchovies at AnchoasDeluxe